FAQ's for Surfaces
I need more cartons of a specific colour – where can I purchase it?
If you cannot get more cartons from your original retailer, contact our customer service department at 1-800-459-4409. We can look for other retailers in your area that carry the same product. There are no guarantees, however, and Quality Craft does not keep products in stock.
How is engineered flooring made?
Engineered flooring is made up of layers of hardwood, plywood or HDF core that are stacked and glued together under high temperature and pressure. It is then coated with several layers of aluminum oxide to maximize the life of the finish.
Where can I install engineered flooring?
Engineered flooring can be installed in almost any room at any grade level and over most subfloors. Engineered flooring is not suitable for damp rooms such as bathrooms, saunas, rooms with damp concrete, rooms with floor drains or rooms that could potentially flood. See our FAQ on “Which Flooring Type is Right for Me?” to compare engineered with hardwood, laminate, vinyl and carpet tile flooring.197.76 KB
Can I install engineered flooring over particle board?
Particle board is not an acceptable subfloor for staple or nail down installation, but can be used as a subfloor in glue-down or floating installations. Install your new engineered floor at right angles to the existing floor.
What temperature and humidity levels do I need to maintain in my home?
Preferable temperature should be approximately 17–23 ˚C (62–73 ˚F) with a relative humidity of 45–60 percent. Humidity should never be able to drop below 30%, as this may cause gapping.
What should I do before installing engineered flooring?
- Read all installation instructions included in your carton before you begin, as improper installation will void warranty.
- Inspect each plank carefully before installation. Engineered floors are made from natural products and, therefore, may have natural defects – our floors are manufactured in accordance with industry standards, which tolerate up to 5% defect. Natural variations in colour, tone and graining should also be expected. The installer must be selective, and discard or cut off unsuitable pieces. The use of stain, filler, or putty to correct defects during installation is a normal procedure. Our warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed.
- Remove the planks from the cartons, spread them out and allow them to acclimate in a horizontal position for 48 hours prior to installation.
- Gather your tools. You will need foam underlay, a pressure sensitive polypropylene adhesive tape such as Tuck Tape or equivalent, spacers, a saw, a hammer, a utility knife, a pencil, a tape measure and a ruler. If installing over concrete, you must install a moisture barrier between the subfloor and the engineered flooring.
- Subfloors must be carefully checked for moisture problems. Acceptable conditions are: less than 3 lbs./100 sq. ft./24 hrs. on calcium chloride test OR less than a reading of 5.0 on a Trames Concrete Moisture Encounter (moisture meter). Any moisture problems need to be solved before installation.
- Ensure your subfloor is even before installation. To check for evenness, hammer a nail into the center of the floor. Tie a string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor at eye level for any gaps between the string and floor. Move the string around the perimeter of the room noting any gaps larger than 3 mm (1/8”). Any floor unevenness of more than 3 mm (1/8”) per 1 m (3’2”) must be sanded down or filled with an appropriate filler.
- Carpet staples or glue residue must be removed and the subfloor must be clean.
Which direction do I install engineered flooring?
First consider which way the light enters your room, as it is best to install engineered flooring with the planks running parallel to the light coming in windows or doors. The starter wall should also be as long and straight as possible.
What happens if my first row of planks is not straight?
It is very important that your first row be absolutely straight as it is the foundation of your installation. If your first row is not properly aligned or joints are not sealed tightly, there may be gaps between the planks. This will allow residue or unwanted particles to get caught in the grooves and result in poor alignment. Do not continue to install your second row of planks if your first row is installed incorrectly.
How do I make my engineered flooring last?
- Avoid scratches by applying felt pads to your furniture legs and only using soft rubber casters with a minimum of 2.54 cm (1”) of surface contact – replace when worn or dirty.
- Use protective mats at all exterior entrances.
- Avoid wearing spiked heels or shoes in need of repair, as they can severely damage your floor.
- Keep your pet’s nails trimmed to avoid scratching.
How do I repair minor scratches or nicks?
You can use colour fill or floor repair paste to repair minor scratches or nicks.
Can I refinish or recoat my engineered floor?
Most engineered surfaces do not need to be refinished. If refinishing or sanding is desired, it should only be done by a professional installer. How many times you can refinish depends on the thickness of the veneer. For example, if your floor has a 2 mm layer of veneer, you can typically sand it 1–2 times.
How do I make a warranty claim on a flooring product?
Please fill out the attached form and email it to our customer service department at firstname.lastname@example.org. Also include your proof of purchase and the photos requested on the form.53.93 KB
Are there formaldehyde emissions from engineered flooring?
The formaldehyde emissions from engineered flooring are extremely low. Engineered flooring is virtually emission free, registering levels less than 0.02 ppm.
Can I install engineered flooring over concrete?
You can install engineered flooring over concrete that has cured for at least 60 days prior to installation. It is crucial to avoid all direct contact between concrete and the engineered floor because the soil beneath the concrete can transmit humidity into the floor. You must therefore install a 4 mil (or thicker) polyethylene vapour barrier. Run poly 5 cm (2”) up the wall and overlap seams 45 cm (18”). Tape seams.
Can I install engineered flooring over radiant heating?
Our engineered flooring is suitable for radiant heated floors. Before installing, turn off heat and wait at least 2–3 days so that the floor has reached room temperature. Once the floor has been installed, turn the heating system on gradually. In the first week, set the temperature to low or medium heat output for 12 hours per day. In the second week, set the temperature to medium heat for 24 hours per day. For the third week, you can regulate the heat as you would normally. The maximum output from the heating cables must not exceed 60 W/m2. The floor’s surface temperature must not exceed 28˚C (82˚F). When using area rugs or runners, the normal surface temperature of the wood may rise higher then recommended.
How much engineered flooring should I buy?
Multiply the length of the room by its width to get its area. Add 10% for waste during installation and for replacement repairs in the future. Divide the total area by the area in each carton to get the number of cartons that you need to purchase.
Do I need to use underlay?
With floating installations, there will always be a slight space between the engineered flooring and the subfloor, so you will need to use foam to minimize these gaps. Underlay also helps with subfloor imperfections, prevents uneven or unstable flooring, minimizes hollow sounds when walking on the floor, and mutes sound transmission. Foam underlay, however, is not needed for engineered floors installed glue down, or with tongue and groove engineered flooring installed with staples or nails.
What kind of adhesive should I use?
For tongue and groove engineered flooring, you may use a flooring adhesive that is not latex or water-based.
How do I clean my engineered flooring?
- Sweep, dust or vacuum your engineered floors on a regular basis – once or twice a week. Use a broom with soft bristles and/or a vacuum with the hard floor attachment only. Do not use vacuums with a beater bar or power rotary brush head as they can damage your wood floor. By performing a regular routine, you will remove tough spots, dirt and girt which may cause scratches or stains.
- Use a cleaner specially formulated for hardwood flooring and a terry cloth flooring mop. Apply the cleaner directly to the terry cloth flooring mop, not to the floor! Use a back and forth motion with the mop. When the terry cloth becomes soiled, replace it with a clean one. Cleaning the floor with a soiled cover could cause streaking.
- Clean and remove spills as soon as they happen as excess water can damage the surface and seep into the seams of the flooring. Use an appropriate floor cleaner and a clean cloth to blot the spill, then dry the surface thoroughly.
- Never wet or damp mop your wood floors. Water can cause damage to wood flooring. Never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
What kind of sealant can I use?
Use any sealant that is specifically recommended for wood flooring.
What should I do if a plank is damaged?
Any damaged planks should be repaired by a professional installer.
Will the colour of my floor change over time?
The colour of your floor will change over time with exposure to sunlight.